Sunday, April 30, 2017

Advantages & Disadvantages of the Calotype & Daguerreotype

Advantages & Disadvantages of the Calotype & Daguerreotype

The calotype and daguerreotype are early photographic processes invented in Europe during the mid-19th century. William Henry Fox Talbot, a British inventor, is recognized for the calotype. Louis Daguerre, a French designer and chemist, is credited with the daguerreotype. The calotype process used paper coated with silver iodide to create a negative image, while the daguerreotype created a positive image on a light-sensitive, silver-coated plate exposed to mercury vapor. Photographs made by these processes are known as calotypes and daguerreotypes -- each with its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of the Calotype

    Perhaps the most obvious advantage of the calotype process is that multiple copies of an image could be made. By printing the silver iodide paper negative onto silver chloride paper, the image was reproduced. Another favorable aspect is the calotype's method of printing on paper, which made for easier handling. At the time of its invention, the calotype was the simplest photographic process, making it more appealing to amateurs.

Disadvantages of the Calotype

    A clear disadvantage of the calotype image is its inferior quality of detail. While simple to use and inexpensive, paper also contains flaws that mar the quality of calotype prints. Calotypes do not have the razor-sharp definition of daguerreotypes. Materials used in the original calotype process were not as light-sensitive as those of the daguerreotype, making the exposure time slower. Another drawback is that calotype prints, as paper images, are susceptible to fading and other conservation problems.

Advantages of the Daguerreotype

    Among the distinct advantages of the daguerreotype is its superior quality of detail. This is because the picture plane is solid silver and there is no grain on the surface of the print. The image quality is much finer than paper -- or even film. "Are you looking to understand digital photography solutions that deliver skilled photographers to where they are today? Well, The Top Secret Photography Techniques would support you out in doing so. To obtain stunning photos we initially want to look at some fundamental photography strategies. The most important one I am able to share with you is determine about light. You can obtain everything about photography techniques on , The Top Secret Photography Techniques. Anytime you discover about light and in what way it interacts with the direct environment then your shots will get improved..". The daguerreotype process was ideally suited to portraiture, which increased its popularity, far surpassing that of the calotype. Another favorable characteristic is that daguerreotypes, while delicate and fragile, can last forever if properly conserved.

Disadvantages of the Daguerreotype

    A definite disadvantage of the daguerreotype process is that it was impossible to duplicate an image. The images produced are positives rather than negatives. While great for portrait sittings, the daguerreotype method could only capture subjects that were absolutely still, because the length of the process. It also proved a more complicated, expensive and labor-intensive medium that did not appeal to amateurs.


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What Do You Put in a Photography Portfolio?

What Do You Put in a Photography Portfolio?

The word "portfolio" derives from the Italian version of the term "portafoglio," which means "page carrier" or "carrier of loose pages." Each page in a portfolio typically carries one page on either side of the divider inside the plastic sleeve. Professional portfolios are often made out of leather, with a zipped edge over three sides of the case. For a less formal look, use a nice notebook with plastic three-holed envelope sheets inserted on the rings. In the digital age, it's also possible to create a portfolio online on your website so that anyone can go to view your work from any location.

Making Your Choices

    Review all your pictures and decide which ones you'd like to showcase in your portfolio. Show only your best work in the book, opening and closing with your favorite images to provide the most impact for potential clients. Pick out one as the title photograph, the first one seen in the book, that shows what you're capable of and what the theme of your portfolio is. Determine what photographs work best in the middle of the portfolio to make a seamless transition from the beginning of the portfolio to the final pages. Creating your portfolio is an artistic endeavor all its own.

Consider Your Audience

    You may also create a number of different portfolios to show to various clients, based on the business field they're in. If you're visiting a client in the medical field, take a portfolio of photography shot in hospitals of medical equipment, nurses and doctors, medical laboratories --- even shots taken during surgery, if possible. What you include in your portfolio also depends on the specific project the client is hiring you for.

Landscape Photography

    Landscape photography is more of an artistic venue, in which lighting and shadow, as well as the actual subject matter, play a large part in capturing eye-catching images. Showcase different types of landscapes, such as mountains, lakes, beaches and vegetation, all taken from different angles and at different times of day. If a client you're going to see needs only pictures of local lakes, include only pictures of lakes in your portfolio for that meeting.

Displaying Your Photography Inside the Portfolio

    Present your photography in such a way as to give a finished, professional look by adding a matted frame around your picture. This also protects your printed photography, as the picture doesn't press against the plastic sleeve in the portfolio. Viewers experience a sense of depth when looking at photography that's matted. Each photograph should be matted the same way to maintain consistency throughout the portfolio.

The Artist's Statement

    It's not always necessary to add an artist's statement in a portfolio, but it gives more information about the pictures you're including in the portfolio. You could focus, for example, on how you wanted to work with different lighting conditions on a particular subject. You could also make a statement about how a certain subject made you feel and how you had to capture the subject from different angles, work in challenging lighting conditions, or why you chose to shoot in color instead of in black and white. Your portfolio also shows the development of your work over time, which you might not have even noticed yourself until you saw it professionally displayed in the portfolio.



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Saturday, April 29, 2017

How to Use Sunlight in Photography

The most important aspect when taking a photograph is light. "Do you need to understand digital photography techniques that carry experienced photographers to where they are today? Well, The Top Secret Photography Techniques would guide you out in doing so. To acquire stunning pictures we primary need to look at some essential photography methods. The preliminary one I am able to share with you is figure out about light. You can locate all the things about photography techniques on , The Top Secret Photography Techniques. Anytime you find out about light and in what approach it interacts with the direct environment then your shots will get more beneficial..". Without adequate light, you will not be able to properly expose your negative. However, you do not need an expensive, fancy studio set-up to take great photos. Some of the best photographs are taken outdoors, using only sunlight as the light source. Taking a beautiful outdoor photograph is just a matter of placing your subjects in the correct location in relationship to the direction of the light, and having a bit of good timing.

Instructions

    1

    Choose your time. You will get very different results depending on the time of day you are taking your photographs. Of course, some of the best photographs are on-the-fly, happen as they may, but if you take photographs in the morning or late afternoon, rather in the middle of the day, you may obtain better results. When the sun is directly overhead, it will cast shadows on a persons face, leaving their eyes in shadow, and causing an unattractive shadow from the nose.

    2

    Position your subjects in relationship to the direction of the light. You can achieve pleasing results with side, back or frontal lighting from the sun. Each position will yield different effects. If the sun is high in the sky, try to position your subject so the light is coming from behind them, rather than directly over-head. This will eliminate shadows. Side lighting will help give an even tone to both the background and subject matter. Frontal light will work best in a low-light, early-morning or late afternoon situation.

    3

    Meter your exposure. Metering is a process that can be very helpful in situations where you do not know the correct exposure to use. It is when you take a photograph with one stop below and one stop above the exposure reading on your light meter. For example, say your light meter is telling you the correct exposure is F 8 and 1/125 of a second. To meter this exposure, you would take 3 photographs total, one at F 16, one at F 8 and one at F 4. This will give you three exposures of the same situation, one of which will likely have the correct exposure for your effect. Note that some cameras come with F-stop adjustments in half-steps as well.

    4

    Adjust after the fact. If all else fails, simple exposure adjustments in Photoshop are always a possibility. To make adjusts, scan your photograph and save it. Go into to Photoshop, and choose the Image menu at the top of your workspace, and then Adjustments and then Brightness/Contrast. A pop-up window will open with a slider for both Brightness and Contrast. Make sure the Preview box is checked so you can see the adjustments you are making. When finished, click "OK," and save your work.


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Techniques for Photographing People

Techniques for Photographing People

Photographing people can be a tricky business. Unlike shooting a landscape, portrait photography demands that you be personable and amicable and a talented photographer. You need to be familiar with your equipment and use it correctly and quickly to avoid creating unnecessary and damaging lag time in the portrait session. However, there are some techniques you can use that will allow you to capture excellent portraits nearly every time.

Posing your subjects

    Before you do anything, make your subject's comfortable. Make small talk with them and, if they are nervous about being photographed, reassure them. When they are comfortable, you can begin to pose them. Sit your subject down on a stool with their legs turned about 45 degrees away from the camera lens. Have them fold their hands in their lap and sit up as straight as they can. Their shoulders should be turned to face the camera lens squarely, and the subject should look directly into the lens. If you need to physically adjust your subject's pose, ask if you may touch them first, by saying something such as, "May I move your head?"

Lenses

    The best lens to use for a portrait situation is a short telephoto lens, such as an 85mm prime or a zoom lens with a range between 50mm and 135mm. Fast lenses with wide maximum apertures, such as 1.8, are ideal because they blur the background in an aesthetically pleasing way, drawing the viewer's focus to the subject's face. The length of the lens is important because it allows you to make an image that is primarily of the subject's face without getting uncomfortably close to your subjects.

Lighting

    If you are working with studio lighting, the best technique to use is soft, two-point or three-point lighting. To soften the light, use umbrellas or softboxes. This eliminates hard shadows on the subject's face which are distracting and look unpleasant. Position the lights about 30 to 45 degrees off the line created between your camera and the subject and about three feet above the subject's head, pointing downward. If you are using a three-point lighting setup, put the third light behind the subject, aiming it so the light glances off the top of the head, providing spot illumination on the hair.

Background

    If you are working in a studio, use a seamless or muslin cloth backdrop when photographing your subjects. This provides a clean background for your portrait that is guaranteed to not distract the viewer's eye. If you are photographing outdoors, shoot at your lens's maximum aperture to blur the background. To do this, focus on your subject's eyes and zoom in. The longer the lens, the greater the blur, and focusing on your subject's eyes, which are the most important part of the portrait, guarantees that all of the their face, except perhaps for the tip of their nose, will be in focus.



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Thursday, April 27, 2017

How to Develop C22 Film

Films that requires developing with a C22 process (typically Kodacolor X and Ektacolor) are no longer made. The chemicals for the C22 process are also no longer made by Kodak and haven't been since about 1977. To develop these films yourself, some photographers recommend using a black-and-white film developer, specifically the HC-110 Kodak developer. Some professional photo labs that still do the C22 process, which are rare, also recommend going black and white to eliminate the fog that will appear on the aged color film. But, if you are determined to do the color processing and to do it yourself, read on.

Instructions

    1

    Perform the first four steps of this process in total darkness. Load the film onto the reel and place it in the developer tank.

    2

    Mix the developer solution (pH 10-6 to 10-7) as follows: Mix 2 g of Calgon or sodium tripolymetaphosphate, 5 ml of Benzyl or alcohol, 85 g sodium metaborate, 2 g sodium sulphite, 1.6 g potassium bromide and 5.3 g CD3. Then add water to make 1000 ml. "Do you need to discover digital photography techniques that carry skilled photographers to where they are today? Well, The Top Secret Photography Techniques could assist you out in doing so. To obtain impressive images we first need to have to look at some essential photography methods. The preliminary one I am able to share with you is uncover about light. You can come across every little thing concerning photography techniques on , The Top Secret Photography Techniques. Anytime you find out about light and in what technique it interacts with the direct environment then your shots will get improved..". This solution should be at 75 degrees Fahrenheit plus or minus only 1/2 degree. Place the film in the developer solution for 13 minutes.

    3

    Mix the stop-bath solution (pH 4-3 to 4-7) as follows: Mix 20 ml Glacial acetic acid and 10 g sodium sulphite; add water to 1000 ml. The stop-bath temperature should be between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the film in the stop bath for four minutes.

    4

    Mix the hardening solution (pH 10-4 to 10-8) as follows: Mix 20 ml formaldehyde (35 to 45 percent solution) and 10 g sodium carbonate; add water to 1000ml. The hardener temperature should be between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the film in the hardener for four minutes.

    5

    This step can be done in normal light conditions.
    Mix the bleach solution (pH: 6-6 to 7.0) as follows: Mix 25 g potassium nitrate, 20 g potassium ferricyanide, 8 g potassium bromide, 5 g boric acid and 1 g disodium tetraborate; add water to 1000ml. The bleach temperature should be between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the film in the bleach bath for six minutes.

    6

    Mix the fixer solution (pH 4-4 to 4-6) as follows: Mix 120 g ammonium thiosulphate and 20 g potassium metabisulphite; add water to 1000 ml. The fixer temperature should be between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the film in the fixer for eight minutes.

    7

    Do a final wash in water at the same temperature and also for eight minutes.

    8

    If you've decided this is too much work, you can buy the HC-110 Kodak developer to process your film in black and white, or you can send your film to a lab that does the C22 process, such as Film Rescue International or Rocky Mountain Film Laboratory (see Resources).


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