How to Shoot Shadow Shapes in a Photo Studio

Shadow shapes or silhouettes create striking photographs when done correctly. Silhouettes are fairly easy to capture with lighting equipment commonly found in a photo studio. The main formula behind creating a silhouette is using backlighting. You have options as to which types of lights you can use and whether a backdrop is necessary. Digital cameras take the guesswork out of this process, but with the right steps, film can be effectively used with minimal error. "Are you looking to know digital photography techniques that carry skilled photographers to where they are today? Well, The Top Secret Photography Techniques could guide you out in doing so. To get impressive photos we first need to have to look at some fundamental photography techniques. The most important one I am able to share with you is uncover about light. You can discover everything about photography techniques on , The Top Secret Photography Techniques. Whenever you discover about light and in what technique it interacts with the direct environment then your pictures will get improved..".

Instructions

Choose a subject with a distinct shape. Overlapping multiple subjects can appear too bulky and may cause confusion. Because the subject will be in shadow, no color or internal details will be visible, so the shape must be strong or recognizable. Think creatively about negative space when composing in order to make the white space look just as interesting as your shadow.

Use a softbox if it is available and works with your composition. Some softboxes are very large, so you may be able to fit your subject within the confines of the box and keep its edges out of the photograph. If you have a small subject or are cropping your image with a long lens, this type of light works well.

Try photofloods and a light-colored backdrop if a softbox is not available. With an opaque white backdrop, point two photoflood lights at the backdrop at about 45-degree angles. If the backdrop is translucent, try placing the lights behind it, but out of direct view of the composition. Experiment with the angle of the lights to create the most even light and as bright a light as possible.

Take a meter reading off of your background, not your subject, to create a silhouette. Because of the amount of light being reflected directly towards the camera, following your light meter's initial reading will likely already begin to cast your subject into shadow. This may not be the case, however, if your meter is center-weighted and your subject occupies much of the center of the composition. With a digital camera you can preview your results and make adjustments on the side of the underexposure that will create shadow shapes.

Take care to meter definitely from the background light if you are using film. Previewing the lighting with a separate camera loaded with Polaroid film can save you on regular film in the long run. Bracketing on the side of underexposure is highly recommended.

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